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Up the Brocken

The Stevens in Wernigerode March 19th!

We celebrated Henry’s birthday in a grand way this weekend.  Not all of the events were motivated by his birthday, but I’m glad it worked out this way.  For starters, both my parents were able to be there.  With Dad’s work and travel schedule, this was an on again, off again thing, and I was so excited and warmed to have him work so hard to get here.  
Then we had great weather.  This was our third visit to the Harz mountains and we got sunshine this time!  Lots of it, and warmer temperatures.  Friday after school Elisabeth, Henry and I took the train from Hannover to Wernigerode (say each syllable, no silent letters, and the W is a V.  It’s easy).  After checking into our hotel we set off to find a playground.  Sometimes I wonder why we work so hard to take our kids places when they just want to find playgrounds!  But it was a scenic one--with a castle in the background.
The Happy Four Year Old
Then we wandered back into town to find dinner, ending up eating crepes at Creperie Loretta.  Elisabeth shows her continual maturation by trying new foods--crepes with eggs and cheese--but still you have to start somewhere.  
By the time we were finished with dinner, John and my parents had arrived by car, John picking them up from the airport.  See, we can’t all fit in our car, so someone has to go by train.  
Enjoying the views from the Brockenbahn

Map or Schedule questions? These are your men



The next morning we set off to find the Harzer Schmalspurlbahn--the narrow gauge steam railway that runs through the Harz.  It was everything I imagined and more.  To a family who sings the songs from Thomas and Friends, this was pretty exciting stuff.  On our 2 hour trip we became accustomed to the smell of coal, the shadows made by the thick clouds of steam, and the clickety clickety of the train over the tracks.  Elisabeth made my day by exclaiming over and over as we gently climbed up through the mountains, “Wow!  Oh wow!  Look at that!”  She had been nervous before we got on the train, asking how steep the train would be going, and what it would be like.  All in all it seemed a gentle climb to her, but she loved the views of the valleys below and the landscape dropping away from us.  Henry was attached to the train schedule, loving the numbers as always.  At one of our longer stops (11 minutes or so) we walked by the engine and I wanted to study it and see all the parts.  Henry was a bit disconcerted by the noises and was ready to go back to his seat.  
Several times John and I took the kids out on to the platform at the end of the car.  Many passengers would do this, and at the beginning as we travelled through trees with level ground on both sides it was nice.  But towards the end of the trip as we made our final ascent up the Brocken to our destination, I found myself clutching Henry’s jacket and ordering him to hold on.  The ground was dropping off to one side here, and it was exhilarating, but I was also getting nervous about the kids.  By this time the trees were more and more sparse and the snow was deeper and deeper.  When I was finally cold enough we headed back inside.




As we disembarked from the train we entered a new landscape.  A wind and ice storm had evidently preceded us and we could see horizontal icicles from any and all objects.  Some of the not-yet-adjusted-to-the-cold-north types were cold and in spite of the glorious sun, we soon headed indoors to eat lunch in and old tower, no made into an observation deck and restaurant.  
The Advance of the Trees!
The Brocken has an interesting history.  We didn’t have time to go to the museum, but I think we’ll be back.  The Brocken was in East Germany and the Soviets had posted listening devices on the top of the mountain.  The area was off limits, but after the Berlin wall fell, protest were held to free the Brocken.  Now it is getting a lot of tourism, and areas of the summit are roped off so that the ecosystem can recover.
Thus ends part one of our trip!

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